Growing Roses from Cuttings

 

 

This past spring, I did some pruning to one of my favorite roses.  The roses were polyantha roses named 'The Fairy'. They were introduced in 1932 and are one of the oldest ground cover roses.  This rose is a repeat bloomer and will be covered in flowers.  They grow about 2 1/2 feet tall with a spread of about 4 feet.  You don't see them much in garden centers but if you can find them, they are worth adding to your garden. 

After pruning these roses, I had lots of cutting to discard and decided to try using some of the cuttings to start more of this rose.  I had tried this technique before without much success.  This year I started fifteen cutting and nine cutting took. They have grown new leaves and healthy root systems.  I had cutting from red, white and pink roses and I can't wait to see them in full bloom in the rose garden in the future.

If you want to try starting roses from cuttings, here are the steps to do it:
1.  Select a shoot that is still green, but just beginning to get woody. Cut above a bud.
2.  Remove the leaves and thorns from about 4 inches above the cut. Dip the cut tip in rooting hormone powder. 
3.  Insert the cuttings into a pot filled with two parts sand and one part peat. The cutting should be in the rooting medium about two-thirds deep.  Use your fingers to firm up the soil around the cuttings.
4.  Water and cover the pot of cuttings with a clear plastic bag to help retain moisture. Some leaves may die and drop off.  If you see new leaves starting to grow, that's a good sign that your cutting is rooting.
5.  Keep the cuttings in a shady place till they start to grow and root.  It will take about 6 to 8 weeks. Remember keep the soil moist and to harden off your cuttings before moving them into the garden. With time, you will have beautiful new roses for your garden. 

'The Fairy' rose in bloom in my garden.


I hope that everyone is having a wonderful year in their garden.  In my area, we are in drought.  It is the worse drought in 104 years.  My garden had been on a garden tour at the beginning of the drought.  I am happy that the tour happened when it did.  The garden is struggling, but still alive.  I really would not want it on a tour now! Normally July is the best time in my garden.  It looks like fall in the garden and we are now on a water ban. I feel like a prison guard deciding who gets a drink of water and who does not.  I just keep reminding myself that the drought has to end and that there is always next year.

Happy Gardening!

Debbie

Propagation Technique - Layering

Layering is an easy way to start new plants for the garden from old plants. There are several forms of layering and this one is very simple. Simple layering means to bend a branch to the ground and pin it down. Where the branch touches the ground, roots will slowly form. Then you can remove the new plant from the parent plant and replant it into the garden. The easy part of this form of layering is that the offspring remains attached to the parent plant as it roots and grows. The parent plant looks after the new forming plant rather than you. Plants that respond to this technique are Spirea, Rambler Rose, Forsythia, Kerria, Caryopteris, Lilac and many more.Start by removing the leaves where the branch touches the soil and cut a notch or split with a knife below a node. A node is a point on the stem at which a leaf or bud is attached. You can use rooting hormone if you wish. Pin the healthy branch to be propagated to the ground. I use a piece of a wire coat hanger that I cut and bend into a pin and push it down into the ground to hold the branch to the ground. Where the branch is pinned, I cover it with soil. This process can take several seasons to a year for the roots to form on your new plant. You can use dormant wood early in spring or mature wood in late summer.

After the branch has rooted to the ground, cut and remove from the mother plant and replant it to it's new garden location. You might want to try this form of layering to add additional plants to your garden.

The Creative Gardener

Secrets of Growing From Seed

Starting plants from seed can be a learning experience. I have a large garden and a small garden budget that doesn't always allow me to buy all the perennials and annuals that my heart desires. I started growing from seed because it was cheaper and a way to increase my plant population in the garden. When I first started growing from seed, I was sometimes disappointed to have some of my seedlings die for reasons unknown. Several years ago, I started doing volunteer work in a greenhouse and learned some secrets for success. Now I find that growing from seed can be very rewarding. Here are a few "secrets" for starting plants from seed inside your home.

• It all begins with the growing medium. Spend the money and buy sterile seed starting mix. The mix is light weight and airy for your seedling to grow in. Some seed starting mixes come with fertilizer and wetting agents in the mix.
• If you are using recycled pots or cell packs make sure they are clean and sanitized. First wash the pot in hot soapy water. Then rinse each pot in a bucket of water and bleach. Finally rinse in clean water and air dry.
• I use a seedling heat mat for bottom heating. Your seeds will germinate faster and have stronger healthier roots. Use the correct temperature for that particular seed. Germination temperatures can be found on your seed packet.
• Purchase fresh seed. You can test old seed (medium and large size) by adding some to a glass of water. If the seed sinks to the bottom it is good seed. If it floats, it will not germinate. Dry the viable seed and sow.
• Provide good lighting either from a window or plant lights. I use a combination of both. Low light will give you tall weak plants.
• Don't over water and provide good drainage. I do not use saucers.
• Provide good air circulation around your plants.
• Some seeds may require refrigeration, soaking or scarifying before planting. Read the planting instructions on your seed packet.

Shasta Daisy "Crazy Daisy" and "Brandywine" Tomatoes



I start my seeds in pots filled with seed starter mix. When the seedling produce their first true leaves (see picture), I then transplant each seedling to it's own separate pot or cell pack. I use a chop stick or a sharpened pencil to make the hole to transplant each seedling. After they are transplanted, I start the process of watering with fertilizer. Use 1/2 the strength recommended on the label. You can also transplant to a mix containing fertilizer. If you are growing tomatoes that have grown tall and thin, transplant them by placing that long stem deeper into the pot. Tomatoes will produce roots along their stems.

This tomato is now in the pot it will grow in till I place it into the garden.

Each of these plant have been transplanted to pots or cell packs and will continue to grow in these till they are moved to the garden. You can grade your seedling by size when using cell packs. That way the smaller seedling will get their fair share of light to grow by not being shaded by largers seedling. Once your plants are ready to go to the garden, make sure that you harden the plants off. Hardening off means to acclimate your plants to the outdoor tempertures. Your plants need to "Toughen Up". This process can take a week or more depending on where you live. Protect your seedlings from sudden outdoor temperature changes or you may have to start all over again. If you want to try your hand at plant propagation, I would suggest that you purchase the American Horticultural Society "Plant Propagation" book by Alan Toogood. This is the most used and worn out book in my gardening library.

Good luck on growing your seeds and happy gardening!

The Creative Gardener