Garden Webbed

I always enjoying seeing spider webs in the garden. It means there is some natural pest control happening!

Anything interesting come out of your garden lately?

Enemies and Allies: Hornworms and Wasps

"The enemy of my enemy is my friend." This ancient sentiment applies very well to the denizens of the garden. The tomato (tobacco) hornworm in the pictures is a being of great tomato destruction. This larval stage of the five-spotted hawkmoth is able to demolish whole tomato plants in a matter of days if not caught early. It feeds off the tomato plants with a voracious appetite leaving behind bare stems where green foliage used to be. But there is help on the way for the organic gardener. Without using pesticides you can rely on Mother Nature to provide a counter attack for these destructive beasts.

Enter the braconid wasp! And I do mean enter! This parasitic wasp lays it's eggs inside the hornworm where they hatch and eat their way through the flesh of the hornworm. The wasp is harmless to people and animals but is a death sentence to the hornworm. The white shapes covering the hornworm in the pictures are the larva of the wasp working their way out. If you see a hornworm in this stage it is best to let it be and let the braconid wasps do their work. The wasps will continue to grow then lay their eggs in other hornworms which will protect your tomatoes from being unceremoniously snacked upon.

If the wasps haven't assassinated your enemy then you can easily pick up and dispose of the hornworms in a solution of soapy water.

R.I.P. Tomato Hornworm

One Way to Protect a Small Plant from Rabbits

In our newly formed back garden areas I've planted several things that are virtually rabbit proof. Things like caryopteris and Russian sage are perfect plantings here since the rabbits just don't like them. But what do you do if you want to plant something that the rabbits believe is a deliriously delicious and divine delicacy for dinner? You have to find a way to protect it, disguise it, hide it or just not plant it. Usually the plants that are rabbit munchies I hide among the less tasty plants but recently I planted two crape myrtles that I grew from cuttings. They are small plants but have adequate root systems to grow in the garden on their own. Eventually these two plants will form an arc over a passage to what will one day be the back shade garden. While the rabbits may never even see or smell these two plants I'm not going to play a game of chance when it comes to my crape myrtles.

In an attempt to shield the new planted trees I took two nursery pots and cut out the bottoms to form a plastic sheath that will fit gently around the trees. Then I speared dried willow branches into the ground on the insides of the pots to hold the pots in place. The crape myrtles will grow up and through the holes while they remain hidden for now from the rabbits.

Will it work? Hopefully but there is a good chance the rabbits will manage to find them. The only thing I've found that keeps rabbits out 100% is a wrap made several feet high (2-3) made from plastic or metal mesh. If I can manage to get the first 3 trunks of the crape myrtle above rabbit height then they are welcome to nibble on the suckers. Then they'll be doing me a favor!

After 3 days in the ground both Crape Myrtles are untouched!

Black Blister Beetle Battles

Another unforeseen issue has arisen in my garden: blister beetles!  These voracious beetles are systematically devouring the foliage of our plants.  So far they've taken turns tasting our tomatoes, tomatillos, and even a clematis.  I'm not heartbroken over the clematis as it's a sweet autumn clematis that grows like a weed - it will come back.  But I do want the tomato plants in the vegetable garden to prosper and so I need to find a way to eliminate the blister beetles before the foliage is all removed.

I have what are called black blister beetles.  Blister beetle larvae are predatory insects that love to eat grasshopper eggs but when the larvae mature they become vegetarian and only eat the leaves of your favorite plants...

Black Blister Beetle with droppings

I noticed our blister beetles when I saw some strange droppings on top of the leaves and on some tomatoes in the vegetable garden.  Droppings are usually a sign of some sort of infestation - and usually aren't good although there are some possible exceptions like the larvae of butterflies like monarchs, swallowtails or other garden beauties. I looked above the droppings and found the black beetles on top of my tomatoes munching away.

I immediately went for the neem oil.  Neem oil is an organic extract from the neem tree that is useful in deterring pests and plant diseases.  The beetles didn't like the neem oil and I thought I had found the trick but they just moved on to the next tomato plant, but they didn't return to the first one.  Then I adjusted my strategy and mixed up soapy water in a sprayer.  That annoyed the beetles, they scattered around, and moved on again but didn't leave as I had hoped. I guess the tomato plant next door is just as good as the one I sprayed.  My next strategy was mixing a wormwood (artemisia) and catnip tea into the soapy water.  Again I was merely an annoyance.

My next course of action will be diatomaceous earth which I've read on various forums should do the trick.  Another recommendation I've seen in several places is to mix lime and flour together.  I'll go the diatomaceous earth route first then update you on the results!

Have you ever had blister beetle sin your garden?  How did you deal with them?

Summer Gardening Tips (Pests, Propagation, and Planning)

Summer is in full gear. Which means there is a lot to do in the garden, there always is isn't there? The tomatoes and peppers are beginning to produce and in a couple short weeks should be ready to pick. Here are a few summer gardening tips to help you in your garden.

Watch for Pests

Always be vigilant in the garden. Pests can appear at any time, some of which will decimate a crop in a few short hours if you aren't observant. Squash vine borers are out. I found one yesterday on a zucchini. The eggs are laid at the base of the plant and when they hatch the larvae burrow into the stem and eat they way up which eventually kills the squash plant. If you see sawdust at the base of your squash cut the stalk and kill the larvae inside. Then cover the base of the plant with soil or mulch. Hopefully this will allow the plant to recover.

Tomato hornworms are out too. These caterpillars can reduce a tomato plant to almost nothing in a few hours. You may notice their droppings before you actually see the caterpillar. Remove the caterpillar from the plant and search your plant thoroughly. If the caterpillar has white growths on its skin about the size of a grain of rice then leave it alone. It's been infected by a parasitic wasp which uses it as a host to grow its young. That caterpillar will die and in the process those wasp larvae will grow up to attack other caterpillars. Natural pest control!

Continue to Plant

Keep planting plants like bush beans and squash. Bush beans produce a lot of beans all at once then can be composted and replaced. Squash tends to be shorter lived due to insect pests but can be planted successively to maintain a consistent harvest.

Continue to Weed

Every weed you remove before it flowers and sets seed could mean thousands of weeds you don't have to weed later! Keep those weeds under control with thick mulch, newspapers, or landscape fabric. Avoid the chemicals!

Propagate!

Early summer is a great time to propagate many garden plants. Greenwood is primed and ready to root and isn't as soft and tender as in the spring. Many garden plants are easy enough to produce just by placing them in a pot with moist soil. Consider propagating some vegetable plants to pot up and bring indoors when the cold weather hits. Peppers are very easy to root and can be brought indoors to overwinter for next spring. Basil is another good one as well. Just take cuttings of about 3-4 inches on either of these plants stick in soil and keep moist. Rooting hormone is not necessary but can speed things along. If a tomato plant happens to die in the garden and you need a replacement cut a branch from another plant and root it. Tomatoes root very easily!

In my gardening I'm having fun rooting grape vines. The greenwood cuttings root very easily if kept humid. The picture to the right is of three 'Concord' grape vines that I rooted a couple weeks ago.

Begin Planning for Fall Crops

If you grow a fall garden now is a good time to plant what seeds you want to get started. It will be a few weeks before they need to be started but it is a good idea to plan ahead.

What are you working on in your garden?

5 Common Garden Insect Pests

Every garden experiences pest issues form time to time.  Insect pest can be frustrating and sometimes when you discover what is damaging your plants it's already too late to do anything about it.  Here are five common insect pests that you may see in your garden for today's Friday Five post!


Flea beetles
You'll notice flea beetle damage by damage to the foliage.  The foliage is covered with tiny holes all over. Mature plants can resist flea beetle damage but younger ones are very susceptible to it.  In my garden they target eggplants more than any other type of plant.  I'll see them on tomatoes and potatoes but the damage is not nearly so dramatic. To deal with flea beetles try using neem oil, insecticidal soap, or diatemaceous earth.  A combination of those treatments may be necessary!



Squash Vine Borers
We love squash around here, especially the tasty buttery yellow squashes.  Unfortunately so do the squash vine borers.  This insect lays its eggs at the base of the plant which then hatch and the larvae burrow into the stem. The vine borer eats the plant from the inside and eventually kills the plant.  If your squash plant is wilting look for sawdust and holes on its stem close to the ground.  You can surgically remove them by slitting the stem lengthwise and pulling out the larvae then covering the stem area with soil.  Prevention is possible using foil wrapped around the base where they like to burrow into the plant.  Sequential planting is another way around them just plant a second crop of squash a couple weeks after the first set.

Cucumber Beetles

Cucumber beetles are a pain since they spread disease that can destroy the cucumber plants.  They can appear spotted or striped.  Pick off the ones you see and drop into soapy water or squish them!  Be careful about using sprays as you could hurt pollinators who need to be present to pollinate the cucumber flowers. Use sprays like neem oil or insecticidal soap careful and try to target the insect and avoid flowers.

Squash Bugs  

Squash bugs, stink bugs, or shield bugs all like to chew on squash leaves, fruit, and anything else in the garden.  They aren't as damaging as the vine borers but are still a big pest.  Squash the ones you see or drop them in soapy water.  You'll notice clusters of eggs on your plants.  Remove the leaf if possible or rub them out so they will not hatch into more squash bugs.

Tomato Hornworm
Tomato hornworms (also known as the tobacco hornworm) are very damaging but are easily controlled.  If you see one, two, or three of them chomping away at your plants remove it to put it far away from the garden.  Birds love to eat them!  You may notice white protrusions along its body.  If that is the case leave it alone or move it to somewhere else - it's better than dead at this point!  Those white protrusions are parasitic wasp larvae (a beneficial insect to gardeners) that have hatches and are tearing apart the caterpillar from the inside out.  They will grow and seek out other hornworms to target to continue their lifecycle.

I highly recommend planting flowers and herbs in around your vegetable garden to attract beneficials and repel the bad insects.  You will run into one or more of these pests each year so always choose the least invasive approach to removing them first.

The Vegetable Garden Has Been Breached! (Deer Again!)

Cucumber Plant - Deer Damage

I was startled the other day when the eventual invader leaped out from behind my shed and scampered off into the woods. I jumped because I thought the deer had gone. I thought that they had picked up and moved on after the neighbors behind us moved in with their dog.  I wish I was right. When it revealed itself from its hiding place behind the shed I was a little concerned but not overly so. Since the deer attacks a couple years ago I began a new strategy: deer resistant plants. Many of my plants are deer resistant which means as long as there is something better to eat the deer will avoid it (never count on this - if they're hungry they will eat anything!). Russian sage, artemisia, heuchera, rosemary, sages and salvias, verbena, and all kinds of other things have been planted in my garden specifically because I knew the deer either didn't like the scent associated with the plant or they just didn't find the plant all that tasty.

Lettuce - Deer Damage

Like I said, I wasn't extremely concerned. I really wasn't too worried about the hosta division I moved to the back garden by the shed. It was small and easily replaced. But when I went out today to the vegetable garden and noticed something was amiss I got worried. I looked over at the heirloom lettuce that I was allowing to go to seed. Something was way wrong and the lettuce had bolted too tall for rabbits to nibble on.

Cucumber - Deer Damage

I checked the squash and saw nibbled off ends and leaves. I checked the cucumbers and found the situation much the same. I inspected the whole garden and found similar situations on all the greens. The colorful rainbow chard was nibbled to the stems (a very attractive feature I might add - the stems sans nibbled parts). The deer had penetrated the sacred ground of my vegetable garden. Never before in my four years of gardening at this house has a deer gotten past my defenses. I knew it was always possible since deer have been reported to jump as high as 8 feet and my fence was a mere four. It wouldn't take much for a daring doe or bold buck to fly over my fence. I suspect the garden's safety was in anonymity. The deer just never new it was there.

Lettuce - Deer Damage

This afternoon I located the point of entry the deer used for its commando-like attack. (What else would you call leaping fences in the dead of night for stealing from a secure location?) Then I went out and purchased some taller poles to erect a new security measure - the invisible fence. Deer don't like running into things that they can't see, really who does? So I also purchased fishing line. The idea is to create a net/web between the poles to discourage the deer from leaping into unknown territory. If the deer sees an easier route to nourishment somewhere else then maybe, just maybe it will leave my vegetable garden goodies alone. The important thing is that the fishing line be located around where the deer's nose might be so that when it investigates it discovers resistance.

Rainbow Chard - Deer Damage

Another option might be to string up objects that will give the deer cause to pause. Anything that makes noise is open for consideration. Maybe some windchimes? Everyone recommends an electric fence as the best way to prevent deer from eating a garden but with two small children and a third on the way I don't want that in the yard. Other folks recommend getting a dog. I would love to adopt a border collie but with a little baby boy on the way we don't need an animal to take care of as well. The enhanced fence is the best option for right now.

Spinach - Deer Damage

Fortunately the deer left my tomatoes, potatoes, and zucchini alone. We'll figure this deer issue out somehow whether through reinforced defenses or special deer sprays outside the garden. Something will work or maybe it's just time to open up a petting zoo...

A Rabbit Rant

I had really planned to put up a different post tonight, all about gardening with children featuring my two year old daughter. Unfortunately that post will have to wait for tomorrow since I'm still seething over tonight's discovery, a rabbit attack. This wasn't some killer attack rabbit from Monty Python. On second thought maybe it was but plants, not people, were its prey. The rabbits didn't attack the vegetable garden. All the vegetables in the vegetable garden are safe and secure behind the rabbit fencing. The birdbath garden wasn't ravaged either. It was my newly planted shade garden. The one with the hostas and Japanese Painted Ferns. The garden with the heucheras and an oak leaf hydrangea. It was also the garden where I acclimate my cuttings to the hot weather...all my cuttings...

Bugs and his buddies took it upon themselves to feast on my Japanese painted ferns. They aren't dead yet but they were ravaged pretty good. Hopefully they will bounce back. I had a little hosta in a pot hiding amongst it's larger kin and it was swallowed as an appetizer. Several of the other hostas were nibbled and gnawed and one small heuchera was snipped. What I am the most angry about was my cuttings. Eighteen chrysanthemums are no more. Eighteen! I can make more but these were several weeks old. A tray of Russian sage is now a tray of dirt filled pots, devoid of vegetation. One salvia was in that tray as well and it's gone also. A salvia lyrata that I was bringing back to life had its new growth unceremoniously snipped. It wasn't even eaten, just snipped. If Elmer Fudd were wandering this way I would gladly lend him a hand. Of course he never did seem to have much luck.

After these discoveries I went inside and grabbed the cayenne pepper and dried red pepper from the spice rack and sprinkled it all over the plants. Maybe if the rabbit thought his feast was fulfilling he might return and find someone has flavored his buffet. Tomorrow I'll make a concoction of pepper spray to periodically add as a salad dressing for the rabbits.

I did learn something though that may be very valuable for selecting rabbit proof plants. Small plants no matter what they are are good game for the rabbits. They will try them even if they don't like them and leave the unwanted remains behind. This is what happened to the Russian sage cuttings and the salvia lyrata. The rabbits don't seem to have much interest in heucheras which is another great reason to plant more. They didn't do anything to the oak leaf hydrangea or the Soloman's seal. The hostas and Japanese Ferns seemed to be the primary targets of the attack.

There was a cat hanging around the last couple weeks and maybe he was keeping the rabbits at bay. He hasn't been around the last few days but I'd like him to come back, I would even start feeding him...do you think he would like rabbit?

I can really identify with Elmer Fudd right now...wascally wabbit. You want war wabbit, I mean rabbit, I'll give you war!

Vegetable Garden: Tomatoes, Zucchini, and Cabbages

Things are growing very nicely in the vegetable garden. The tomatoes (which are our favorite crop no matter what else we try) are growing like crazy, the zucchini has almost produced it's first zucchini, and the cabbage are ...well...you'll see...

Here are two of my raised beds full of tomatoes. The bed on the left contains mostly Roma tomatoes while the one on the right is a mixture of several different kinds like Panto Romanesco and Woodle Orange. You may also notice the large pieces of cardboard in between the beds. Those are temporary until I can get mulch put in between the raised beds but for now will keep the weeds down. One day the cardboard will completely break down and degrade into the soil. I have three other raised beds with tomatoes like Brandywine, Black Krim, and Cherokee Purple not pictured.

The first of mountains of zucchini and squash is almost ready. Be sure to pick your squash and zucchini often to keep it producing and don't allow the zucchini or squash to become to large. The fruits lose flavor the larger they get. Also keep an eye out for borers and squash bug eggs. Squash bug eggs typically end up planted in the underside of the leaves where the veining occurs. If you squash the eggs before they hatch you'll have a good chance of managing them. I've seen way too many eggs already this season!

With regard to the cabbage I have to say I'm disappointed but not too surprised. The cabbages in the garden look like someone fired a shotgun at them. They've been victimized by the cabbage loopers. Cabbage loopers are little green caterpillars which eventually change into the small white or yellow butterflies that you see floating through the garden. There are chemical concoctions that will kill them but I prefer to not use chemicals on anything I eat! The use of row covers before the butterflies begin flying in the spring is probably the best way to manage loopers. One of these days I'll get ahead of the game!

Cabbage Loopers on Hollyhocks

Well it had to happen. More insects have attacked the plants in my garden. My second year hollyhocks are the lastest victims of an insect known as the cabbage looper. Eventhough their name is cabbage looper that doesn't mean they will stop there. They like all sorts plants in the crucifer group like broccoli, collards, kale, and cauliflower as well as other vegetables in the cucurbit family. (For a more complete list visit the Univeristy of Florida's Entomology page on Cabbage Loopers) Now this little green worm may not seem like much when you look at him but when you consider that he can eat up to three times his weight each day and that he usually tags along with 300-600 newly hatched larvae of his closest friends the damage can be decimating.

This is how they start, munching on the juicy green foliage of the host plant. In this case they are on my second year hollyhocks.  On any one leaf I counted 10-15 larvae at any time.

They work their way through the plants leaves to get enough energy to sustain their transformation into cabbage moths.

Leaving behind leaves on your favorite ornamentals and vegetables that look like this:

 

Not a pretty sight is it? This hollyhock wasn't intended to be a lace leaf variety. When I finally caught the cabbage worms I applied an insecticidal soap that contains neem oil which works as a feeding deterrent and as a growth regulator. Quite frankly I just want them dead and gone. (These worms also targeted a rose bush we have in the front garden. They have not made me very happy.) I did use a very effective if somewhat time consuming method when I first saw them, I call it thumbicide. Just take the little worms between your thumb and forefinger (I used gloves) and squeeze tightly. (If you're angry enough this may help you channel that anger!) If that is a little too icky for you consider using Bacillus thuringiensis or BT for short. It's a bacteria that is harmless to people but not to insect larvae. Another option is simple prevention. If you have a large crop of cabbage invest in row covers to prevent the moths from laying their eggs in the first place! I checked my one cabbage plant that came up from seed and found a small infestation there as well, you can bet I'll be definding my cabbage. I've got a batch of coleslaw that is depending on my fortitude!

Insects are just one of the many challenges in gardening, frustrating yes, but figuring out how to deal with them will make you a better gardener!

For more information on their control and lifecycle go to the University of Florida's Cabbage Looper Information Page.

To help fend off cabbage loopers from vegetable crops try this from Gardener's Supply:

Pop-Up Pest Control Nets

I'm No Mr. McGregor

We all know the tale about that famous gardener who is protective of his garden and the hungry and curious little Peter Rabbit. The silly rabbit invades Mr. McGregor's garden (not to be confused with Mr. McGregor's  daughter's garden) to gorge himself on the fruits of the gardener's labor, then loses his clothes in the process of fleeing from Mr. McGregor's wrath and returns home sick and exhausted. I understand the damage those little bunnies can do but last night I was definitely no Mr. McGregor! While I was mowing around our yard four bunnies ran out from their hiding places afraid of the sounds of the riding mower. I couldn't bring myself to continue mowing until I knew they were out of the way and safe so I gathered up those that I could and put the bunnies in a tall bucket until I was finished mowing.

I was only able to gather three of the little rabbits, the fourth was a clever little one - possible Peter himself! I released all the bunnies back into my yard and back into their nest after I finished mowing for the night. Yes I know, I'll probably regret that one day. But the kids got to see a little bit of mother nature in our backyard - just where it should be!

Bunnies in the Garden

What do you do when cute little furry bunnies that eat your strawberries? Good question! I'm not sure I have the best answer and maybe you have some suggestions for this issue but over the weekend I found a solution that so far seems to have worked.  First let me share with you how I found bunnies in my garden.

On Saturday I was out in the vegetable garden filling a few raised beds (including the Greenland Gardener bed I mentioned a few weeks ago - more on that later this week) and picked up the hose to water a few plants. I looked to the strawberry plants and though "they could use a drink" and began to spray at the base of the strawberry plants as best as I could when something ran out - the first little bunny! It was soaking wet from the hose but otherwise unharmed.  I snuck up behind it, gently picked it up, and moved it out of the garden into the brushy hillside area. Then I thought "I wonder who else is hiding in there?" and proceeded to spray more of the strawberry patch. Two more bunnies raced out and ran for cover. I doubted they would stay out of the garden - you know how bunnies are - always hungry - and always making more mouths to feed!



Later in the day I came back to the vegetable garden and checked the strawberry patch again for bunnies - sure enough - the three bunnies were back!  This time I captured all three bunnies and placed them in a tall nursery pot. I kept them there while I worked in the garden some more and planted cantaloupe, squash, zinnias, marigolds, and beans, beans, and more beans! I can't wait for this summer's harvest to come rolling in. Back to the bunnies...

I decided I would give them one more chance to stay away from the garden and in my territory (AKA yard). I moved all three bunnies underneath a large - and quite wild - multiflora rose bush on our hillside. I figured it would offer them adequate protection from predators (which consist mostly of neighborhood cats) and was a good distance away from my vegetable garden. But I couldn't stop there. I went to my garden shelf (OK I don't have just one - things tend to end up all over the place) and brought out my bloodmeal. I sprinkled the bloodmeal around the strawberries, asparagus, tomatoes, and all around the vegetable garden. Bloodmeal has a Nitrogen content of 12% which is useful to all those plants. Bloodmeal also scares away creatures that tend to be lower on the food chain. They smell the scent of blood and are afraid a predator may be lurking about. After two days we seem to be bunny free in the vegetable garden. Hopefully now that they are out they will stay out, but it is a wake up call for me - my fence needs bunny proofed! 

We'll see how this goes! How do you keep rabbits out of your garden?

Leaf Beetle Larvae (Calligrapha)

Imagine my disgust when I walked out to inspect plant today after several days of rain to see this:

This coreopsis that I raised from seed last year was nearly completely devoured by leaf beetle larvae.  I don't know enough about insects to identify which species of leaf beetle it is but I am positive it is a Calligrapha. The damage is pretty devastating. The leaves are spotted with holes and very few leaves have escaped untouched. The interesting thing (Yes, I can find something interesting in this!) is that they are only on the coreopsis plants. I have several of them in our rain garden along with other plants like coneflowers, goldenrod (Solidago), butterfly weed (Asclepias), and some ornamental grasses but only the coreopsis plants received any damage. The picture above was the worst one damaged but all of them have seen damage.  Coreopsis are generally pest free but apparently I have managed to attract one of the few pests that like them.

So how do I know it's The Beetles (and their larvae)? Take a closer look at the damage and you will see the culprit. The little black larvae on the left has been caught red handed, feasting on foliage. I had no choice but to bring out the insecticidal soap.  Hopefully I managed to eliminate them all but I'll treat again in a couple days. I would love to wait for a beneficial bug to find them but by that time my coreopsis would be gone. Insecticidal soap should do the trick! I sprayed each coreopsis on as much of the leaf surface as I could making sure that the undersides were covered.

Coreopsis is a vigorous grower and should come back as long as the larvae stay away. At least the other plants didn't look as bad as this one. If you see even one of these little insects eliminate it fast and watch out for more! I'm definitely not a fan of these beetles!

What to do about Tent Caterpillars

You've seen them. In your cherry trees. If you haven't yet then take a look, they are on their way. Tent Caterpillars can be devastating to the foliage of young trees especially those of the prunus genus. They may look all cute and cuddly up close but when allowed to let loose they feast like there is no tomorrow upon the lovely new leaves of your trees.

Tent caterpillars overwinter in groups of 150 to 400 eggs and hatch hungry in the spring. They join together as a community of pests and create white, silky, sticky nests to serve as their base of operations. If you can reach their base you can easily take them out but the task becomes more difficult the higher in the tree canopy they occupy.

These particular caterpillars were in my in-laws plum tree. A stick was all that was needed for their removal.

I mentioned how to treat tent caterpillars last year and here's what I said:

According to the University of Kentucky Entomology Department you can treat them with insecticides that contain Bacillus thuringiensis var kurstaki. You could also use insecticides with carbaryl, methoxychlor, and malathion.

One method they recommend is to take a large stick poke the nest and twist. Most of the nest should pull apart and wind up on your stick like cotton candy! Other than that prevention is the best method. Take the eggs off the trees during the winter months or remove the nests as soon as you spot them.

I've also found that a spray with dish detergent and water will work well for those nests that are easy to reach. If you have an extremely large tree that they are nesting in you probably don't have to worry about the health of the tree too much. The tree should be able to recover from the defoliation but those nests don't look very nice. I would still be tempted to break them open and invite the birds for a snack.

After they have gorged themselves on your trees they will wander away to form cocoons and enter their next stage of existence. They won't do any further damage to your trees at this point so if you see a wandering worm don't worry, they are just going to become moths and hatch the next generation!

This Caterpillar Killer concentrate from Safer contains BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) which is an organic pesticide effective against Caterpillars.

Aphids on Ornamental Peppers!

Insect pests (like aphids) are always frustrating to find on your plants. I've dealt with aphids many times before but I still never like to find them again. Inevitably I do. Aphids are one of the most common insect pests in every garden. If you garden you will eventually find them on one of your plants. I've had them on plants like spirea, hostas, asclepias (butterfly weed), and now my ornamental peppers!

The solution is simple and non-toxic which is great if you have children or pets around. Soapy water! We have a spray bottle that we keep in the kitchen for cleaning up with a little bit of dish soap and a lotta bit of water. I just take the bottle and spray my plant away making sure to cover each leaf thoroughly top and underside. But the aphids will come back! In a few days the aphids will return (not the same ones - the offspring) and I spray again. Aphids have this crazy characteristic of producing live young without mating which means the eggs are already about to hatch inside the stem mother so their return is pretty much assured.

Also this spring when you start to see ants mysteriously exploring your plants check closely because they may be stealthily transporting aphids to your plants!

If you don't have a spray bottle you can take a soapy solution on a paper towel and wipe out those aphids. This may in fact be more effective since you would be removing the dead bodies of the aphids and the baby aphids would not be able to return to that plant.

Have you checked your houseplants lately?

5 Ways to Control Garden Pests (The Friday Fives)

As gardeners we deal with all kinds of issue that can make gardening frustrating and difficult.  One of those issues is pests.  Pests come in many forms from thousands of kinds of insects to birds and animals.  No method of pest control is 100% effective all the time so gardeners need be creative problem solvers in the garden.  The best advice is to research the specific pest issue then come up with a strategy to thwart it.

If you take a little time and target the treatment with the problem you'll be more effective and won't have to resort to chemicals - which I feel is very important!  So for today's Friday Five we'll bring up 5 Ways to Control Garden Pests.  Like I just mentioned, these methods will not work 100% of the time for every pest but they are helpful and will make your garden more successful!

5 Ways to Control Garden Pests

1. Companion Planting.  Companion planting is a very fascinating strategy to prevent pests from damaging your plants.  It involves planting plants that pests don't find attractive near other plants that they do.  These plants form a sort of symbiotic relationship that deters the pests from damaging the yummier, tastier garden varieties!  Companion planting also includes planting varieties that are called "trap" plants.  These are plants that pests are drawn to that you can easily remove or even spray with insecticidal soap so that you can cause mass casualties to the pest population!  There are even plants that are magnets for pests that will decimate their numbers.  Take 4 O'Clocks (Mirablis) for instance.  Japanese beetles are drawn to these plants but there's one problem for them - 4 O'Clocks are poisonous! This is an easy way to protect your roses and crape myrtles from Japanese beetle damage.  One very good resource for companion planting is the book Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening (link to Amazon).  It covers the subject in detail and has lot of other good garden advice.
2. Row covers.  Row covers are extremely effect pieces of mesh that cover sensitive plants to protect them from pests.  They work great on greens that are prone to damage by cabbage loopers. The cabbage moth lays its eggs around suitable plants then the larvae munch down on whatever they can.  Anything related to cabbages is an easy, and often preferred, target which will completely ruin your chances of making fresh from the garden coleslaw this summer!  (I definitely love the mayonnaise kind and not the vinegar based types, how about you?) Row covers placed over the crops prevent the moths from landing and laying eggs which ultimately protects your garden.
3. 
   Good fences make a good garden.  If your neighbors happen to be deer, rabbits, groundhogs, or any other small garden animal that loves to nibble on your garden a fence may be a good way to go.  Deer require a very tall fence since they will be happy to jump fences to get to your garden goodies.  I know this for a fact.  To prevent deer in my garden I made a makeshift fence from bird netting all the way around my garden.  The deer don't journey in my garden anymore but instead visit my non-deer proof plantings from other areas of the garden!  ARGH! Smaller animals may try to burrow under fences so it is wise to install your fence with a portion of it under the soil.  
4. 
   Plant plants animals don't like!  I'm sure you've heard the terms "Deer Proof" or "Deer Resistant" applied to plants before.  I'm not sure that there are many plants that are truly deer proof but there are those that are deer resistant.  They are resistant because often they have features that deer don't want to deal with like thorns, fragrant leaves, or are poisonous plant parts. This doesn't help when it comes to vegetables directly but if you plant a border of deer resistant plants around your vegetable garden it may think that "this is not that garden I am looking for!"
5. Smelly concoctions!  Smelly concoctions fool animals into thinking that the plants these concoctions are not very tasty.  Of course if you spray a mixture of rotten eggs and hot pepper sauce on your food you wouldn't like it either!  There are commercial products that do the trick but are tons of homemade recipes out there you can find that work as effective deterrents.  I've used a mixture of hot pepper sauce, cayenne peppers, rosemary, dish soap, and any other fragrant herb around with water effectively against deer.  The downside to this is that you need to reapply after a rain.

And one more!  I couldn't resist adding this easy and effective tip for preventing cut worm damage.  Stick a  nail, toothpick, or other stick-like object next to the base of the plants you want to protect - right up against the stem.  Cut worms like to wrap themselves around the stem and nibble down around the stem.  The stick prevents them from being able to completely wrap around the plant which saves your vegetable garden!

What is your favorite technique for Controlling Garden Pests?

Previous Friday Fives
5 Plants No Garden Should Be Without 5 Vegetables That I Will Always Grow in My Garden   5 Favorite Trees That I Grow In My Garden  5 Ways to Help Wildlife in Your Garden 5 Ways to Naturally Eliminate Weeds   5 Easy To Propagate Plants from Cuttings 5 Herbs You Should Plant in Your Garden  5 Fun Foliage Plants!